Alexandra de Markoff
Alexandra de Markoff
218 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The pimento and its green-spiced companion strike immediately with aggressive clarity, a tingling, almost electric sharpness that overwhelms the senses with peppery heat and synthetic whisper. This isn't a gentle introduction—within the first minutes, Enigma declares its uncomfortable intentions.
The lavender absolute emerges tentatively, attempting to introduce herbal-aromatic softness, but it remains subordinate to the lingering spice, creating an odd marriage of soapy-clean and peppery-warm that never quite harmonises. The sweetness accord (100%) attempts some rounding, yet feels restraining rather than liberating.
The New Caledonian sandalwood finally assumes dominance, offering creamy, barely-sweet woody dryness that carries hints of the original spice as whispered memory. However, the fragrance's notorious longevity concerns render this stage disappointingly brief, with the sandalwood fading to skin-scent within hours rather than developing into a proper resound.
Enigma Alexandra de Markoff presents itself as a deliberately challenging composition—not a fragrance designed to flatter, but one that intrigues through dissonance. The opening assault of pimento and its peculiar green-tinged counterpart creates an almost medicinal prickliness, a spiced bite that refuses to soften into comfort. This isn't the warm spice of cinnamon or clove; it's sharper, more confrontational, with that synthetic backbone (76%) adding an almost plasticky sheen that prevents the composition from ever settling into conventional beauty.
What makes Enigma particularly fascinating is how Nelly Hachem Ruiz has constructed the heart around lavender absolute—typically a soother, a mediator—yet here it functions more as a tether than a balm. The lavender doesn't sweeten the spice; instead, it becomes caught in the fragrance's internal friction, creating an herbal-aromatic tension that sustains the fragrance's restless energy. New Caledonian sandalwood anchors the base with its characteristic creamy-woody restraint, though even this proves unable to domesticate the composition's fundamental edginess.
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3.8/5 (237)