Annayake / アナヤケ
Annayake / アナヤケ
90 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The juniper berry and bergamot assault first with sharp, piney brightness, immediately tempered by the sweet-sour punch of lemon juice and mandarin. Within moments, cardamom's warming spice cuts through, creating a compelling tension between citrus snap and aromatic warmth—it's bracing, almost like inhaling the steam from a cup of cardamom tea.
The spice accord deepens considerably as coriander seed and nutmeg emerge, whilst green tea introduces a subtle astringency that anchors the composition. Lavender appears not as a floral softener but as another herbal voice in an increasingly complex conversation, and the synthetic nature of the base becomes noticeable here, lending a slightly ethereal, almost translucent quality to the mid-stage.
Frankincense and tobacco dominate, creating a smouldering, incense-like dryness that speaks to the fragrance's meditative character. The musk and precious woods provide a whisper of warmth beneath, whilst the synthetic elements fade, leaving behind something that smells older and more contemplative than the opening suggested—less about freshness, more about quiet contemplation.
Undō reads as a fragrance caught between two impulses: the crisp severity of a Japanese garden and the warmth of spiced tobacco smoke drifting through an open window. The opening volley of juniper berry and bergamot establishes an almost medicinal freshness—there's something mineral and slightly austere here, as though you've just crushed juniper needles between your palms. But cardamom and lemon juice arrive quickly to soften this edge, introducing a citrus sweetness that feels neither innocent nor cloying, but rather intelligent and restrained.
What makes Undō compelling is how its heart develops around green tea rather than floral sweetness. The coriander and coriander seed create a peculiar sensation: warm yet crisp, almost peppery in how it interacts with lavender's cool herbaceousness. There's something quietly introspective about this combination—it suggests someone who appreciates ritual and precision, who brews their tea slowly and notices the shift in light across a room.
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3.5/5 (100)