Antica Spezieria Erboristeria San Simone
Antica Spezieria Erboristeria San Simone
247 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Cascalone bursts forth with an almost aquatic freshness, sea spray meeting crushed violet leaves and the cold, metallic snap of iris root. The effect is paradoxically clean yet earthy, like rain on leather-bound books, with the greenness of violet leaf providing a bitter, cucumber-like astringency that keeps the florals from turning immediately sweet.
Mimosa blooms warm and honeyed, its powdery softness meeting pear's jammy ripeness in an embrace that borders on gourmand territory. Paradisone amplifies this into full white-floral intoxication—creamy, narcotic, almost soporific—whilst the leather note emerges not as a roar but as a supple whisper beneath all that sweetness, like suede gloves dusted with face powder.
Ambrox provides a crystalline, almost salty warmth that anchors the remaining florals—ylang ylang's tropical richness now subdued to a murmur, heliotrope's almond softness melding with the animalic funk of Grimtak. What remains is skin-close and intimate: powdered leather, faded flowers, the ghost of violet pressed between pages, a scent that feels inherited rather than applied.
Cuoio Antico is a glorious contradiction—a leather fragrance that refuses to roar, choosing instead to whisper through clouds of violet leaf and iris butter. The name promises antiquity, yet what arrives is surprisingly aqueous and modern, thanks to Cascalone's ozonic shimmer cutting through all that powdery restraint. This is leather as memory rather than material: softened by time, perfumed by sachets forgotten in old bureau drawers. The pear and mimosa at its heart create an almost narcotic sweetness, honeyed and indolic, whilst Paradisone lends a photorealistic jasmine facet that hovers like expensive talc. Grimtak—that peculiar animalic musk—skulks beneath the prettiness, adding a hint of worn saddle and salted skin without ever turning aggressive. The ylang ylang weaves through the composition like golden thread, its creamy banana-custard richness balanced by heliotrope's almond-marzipan softness. This isn't the leather of biker jackets or executive briefcases; it's the scent of aristocratic neglect, of kid gloves left in coat pockets and leather-bound books pressed with dried violets. It's for those who appreciate the Guerlain school of perfumery—that particular French gift for making animalics feel elegant rather than confrontational. Wear this when you want to feel like you've inherited good taste rather than purchased it, when you want fragrance that suggests private libraries and afternoon light through lace curtains. It's resolutely unisex in that particularly European way where gender becomes irrelevant in the face of sheer olfactory sophistication.
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3.9/5 (389)