Atelier des Ors
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A jolt of bergamot brightness collides immediately with sulfurous unease—violet leaf cutting through with green, peppery sharpness whilst that rotten egg note whispers something faintly unsettling beneath. It's like biting into candied citrus peel only to discover something mineral and faintly off underneath.
Madagascar pepper flares into prominence, warming against the increasingly creamy Cascalone and violet heart, whilst Cetalox softens everything into an odd, synthetic-floral embrace. The fragrance settles into ambiguous territory here—neither fresh nor fully animalic, hovering in that uncomfortable middle space where beauty and strangeness become indistinguishable.
Cedar and vetiver finally dominate, pushing the composition firmly into weathered, shadowy woodiness, with patchouli adding a subtle earthen bitterness. What remains is intimate and austere—closer to worn leather and forest floor than traditional fragrance comfort, fading gradually into skin scent rather than a final flourish.
Chœur des Anges arrives with a peculiar provocation: Olivier Cresp has layered Calabrian bergamot and Italian mandarin with violet leaf absolute, then introduced rotten egg—that sulfurous, animalic note that shouldn't work, yet somehow does. It's challenging rather than ingratiating, immediately establishing itself as a fragrance for those unafraid of olfactory tension. The opening brightness doesn't last; beneath that citrus-floral sparkle lurks something altogether earthier and more complex.
This is where the synthetic accords register as intentional. Cetalox and Ambrox create a creamy, almost plasticine underbelly that catches against the spice—Madagascar pepper brings genuine heat without sweetness, whilst Cascalone adds an unusual, almost herbal-green dimension to what could have been a straightforward violet composition. The woody accord (88%) isn't delicate; American cedar and bourbon vetiver root the fragrance firmly in earthy masculinity, though the 52% floral content prevents it from becoming purely masculine-coded. It's genuinely unisex in its refusal to comfort.
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3.9/5 (707)