bdk Parfums
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Saffron pierces through immediately with a thread-like sharpness, accompanied by ginger's warm bite. These spice notes crackle rather than bloom, establishing an almost savoury opening that defies typical perfume expectations.
The cumin emerges as saffron fades, creating an unexpected herbaceous-spiced accord with the Turkish rose absolute—earthy and slightly austere rather than conventionally floral. White blossoms add transparency, whilst the woody framework (gaiac, frankincense) begins to solidify beneath.
Castoreum grounds the composition into a smoky, resinous base where frankincense becomes paramount. Oud surfaces as a warm, slightly animalic undertone, whilst amberwood and orcanox provide a subtle honeyed finish that persists as a intimate skin-scent.
Oud Abramad announces itself as a spiced incense experience rather than a conventional oud fragrance. Saffron and ginger ignite first, their peppery brightness acting as a foil to what's coming—this isn't the honeyed, almost sweet oud some expect. The heart reveals the genius of Mathilde Bijaoui's composition: Turkish rose absolute sits alongside cumin, creating an almost syncretic effect where the floral reads as dusty and savoury rather than romantic. White blossoms add a whisper of soap-like clarity, preventing the cumin from becoming overtly culinary.
What emerges is a fragrance of amber and smoke rather than leather and animalics. The castoreum brings a subtle animalism, but it's quickly subsumed into the woody-resinous framework where frankincense dominates the dry base. Oud functions here as a supporting bass note—textural rather than dominant—whilst gaiac wood provides a dry, almost medicinal spine. Orcanox and amberwood create a honeyed undertow, though it never reads as sweet; instead, it feels like amber resin warmed on stone.
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Mancera
3.8/5 (131)