Brecourt
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Frankincense arrives with resinous intensity, immediately challenged by carrot's unexpected vegetable warmth and tangerine's citric sweetness—the first minute feels almost confrontational, as though three different accords are negotiating for dominance. Within five minutes, the citrus gains ground, but the frankincense's smoky undercurrent persists, creating an opening that's both fresh and quietly spiced.
The florals emerge as the top notes dissolve, with orange blossom and heliotrope creating a delicate, almost creamy floral heart that would border on conventional save for the tea note's astringent intervention. The powdery accord becomes pronounced here, lending a soft, talc-like quality that makes the florals feel powdered rather than dewy—this is where Eau Trouble's true character reveals itself, caught between classic and unconventional.
Iris, vetiver, and cedarwood create a sparse, understated finish that barely registers as woody at all—more a gentle skin scent of musk, pale iris, and dry wood. The fragrance becomes increasingly intimate and fleeting, settling into a whisper-soft powdery musk that clings close to the skin before fading into near-invisibility within four to five hours.
Eau Trouble is a fragrance caught in deliberate contradiction—its name translates to "troubled water," and the composition mirrors this conceptual restlessness. Emilie Bouge has crafted something that refuses easy categorisation, oscillating between citric brightness and powdery restraint. The frankincense arrives with an almost medicinal fortitude, immediately complicated by carrot's waxy, almost root-vegetable earthiness—an unusual pairing that shouldn't work but does, lending the opening a slightly unconventional, almost culinary quality before tangerine's juicy warmth softens the edges.
What emerges is fundamentally a floral fragrance, yet one filtered through a distinctly powdery lens. The orange blossom and heliotrope speak to classical femininity, but they're tempered by a tea note that acts as a tonal anchor, introducing an almost astringent dryness that prevents any saccharine drift. This is no cheerful white floral; instead, there's something contemplative about it, a fragrance that whispers rather than announces. The iris-vetiver-cedarwood base provides structure without substantial weight—these are subtle woody elements that dust the skin like talcum rather than asserting themselves as architectural supports.
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3.8/5 (208)