Caron
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright neroli and orange arrive with an almost effervescent quality, cutting through the morning like morning light through cabin windows. Within moments, though, this citric freshness becomes tinged with peppery spice and something faintly herbaceous, as if someone has scattered dried flowers across a leather aeroplane seat.
The lilac and jasmine emerge gradually, their floral sweetness immediately tempered by the resinous pull of opoponax. Here the fragrance reveals its true character—neither fully floral nor fully animalic, but suspended between the two, with a subtle leather undertone that makes the florals feel aged and slightly austere, like pressed flowers in an old ledger.
A whisper of amber and opoponax cling to the skin with remarkable restraint, creating a warm, muted finish that's almost powdery in its softness. The spice fades to suggestion, and you're left with something barely-there but distinctly present—a ghost of florality and warm leather that feels more like memory than scent.
En Avion exists in that fascinating liminal space between the 1920s aviation romance and classical European perfumery—a scent that feels simultaneously nostalgic and abstract. Ernest Daltroff crafted something genuinely peculiar here: a fragrance where floral elegance collides with an almost medicinal spiciness that prevents it from ever becoming merely pretty.
The lilac-jasmine heart is the emotional core, but it's not the soft, powdery interpretation you might expect. Instead, these florals emerge roughened by opoponax, that resinous balsam that lends an almost leathery, slightly animalic character to the composition. There's something vaguely smoky about the way the amber (52% accord strength) sits beneath everything, never sweetening the composition but rather grounding it with a warm, slightly dusty embrace. The neroli and orange in the opening suggest brightness, yet they're immediately shadowed by the spicy undertones—anise, perhaps, or that particular peppery quality that leather notes can impart.
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