Cartier
Cartier
232 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The assault is immediate and herbaceous—thyme and mint arrive with almost medicinal clarity, supported by a zesty mandarin that feels genuinely citrus-bright rather than synthetic. The first minutes are crisp, clean, almost cologne-like in their volatility, with the mint particularly dominant and slightly cooling on the skin.
By the first hour, the spiced florals emerge as the mint retreats, revealing alyssum's subtle, almost baby-powder-soft florality wrapped around coriander's warm spice. The Brazilian rosewood becomes perceptible, adding a peppery woodiness that transforms the composition from fresh to aromatic-woody, whilst the base begins its steady ascent, and the fougère character solidifies the structure underneath.
What remains is predominantly woody and earthy—patchouli and oakmoss form a dry, slightly mossy base whilst sandalwood provides creamy support and labdanum's honeyed warmth prevents the whole affair from becoming austere. The fragrance becomes intimate and skin-close, a whisper rather than a declaration, with the spiced-woody accord defining the final hours until it fades entirely from the skin.
Pasha de Cartier is a fragrance that wears its contradictions with elegant confidence. Launched in 1992 by Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, it presents itself as a fresh composition—all bright mandarin and volatile mint—but beneath that sparkling veneer lies something considerably more complex and woodenly assertive. The thyme and mint top notes suggest a bracing aromatic freshness, yet they're merely the aperitif before the real narrative unfolds.
What makes Pasha distinctive is how the heart notes negotiate between the spicy-floral territory (coriander and alyssum) and the woody framework that lurks beneath. Brazilian rosewood adds a slightly peppery sweetness that prevents the composition from feeling austere, while the coriander creates a subtle spice that echoes the top notes' herbaceousness. This is where the fragrance reveals its true character: neither quite a fresh aromatic, nor a traditional woody, but something caught in the liminal space between them.
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3.8/5 (788)