Clandestine Laboratories
Clandestine Laboratories
76 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The galbanum hits first, sharp and green-edged, immediately joined by bright bergamot and a peppery clary sage that feels almost medicinal. Within seconds, neroli and lemon introduce an unexpected luminosity, suggesting a fresh cologne rather than what's lurking beneath—this is the fragrance catching you off-guard, momentarily civilised.
As the citrus fades, the true architecture emerges: creamy sandalwood and dark patchouli rise like smoke, anchored by geranium's slightly dusty florality and iris's powdery restraint. The leather begins its insistent presence here, still restrained but unmistakable, whilst vetiver adds a dry, rooted earthiness that prevents this from becoming merely sweet or cloying.
The base becomes increasingly dominant—leather solidifies into something heavy and unmistakably animalic, whilst tonka bean and vanilla offer a strange sweetness that's somehow sour rather than comforting. The moss deepens everything into an earthy green, and that final sewage note lingers like a question mark, rendering the fragrance deliberately, deliberately unsettling. What remains is stubborn, almost confrontational.
Haunted arrives as a deliberate provocation—a 1970 composition that wears its contradictions like a leather jacket. The opening assault of galbanum and bergamot suggests something fresh and cerebral, but this is merely theatre before the curtain drops on something far more transgressive. What unfolds is a fragrance caught between the verdant spice of a highwayman's cologne and something altogether more carnal: the creamy sandalwood and patchouli heart doesn't soften so much as conspire with the leather and moss below, creating an accord that feels illicit rather than refined.
This is a scent for those uninterested in flattery. The geranium and iris provide a whisper of green femininity, but they're quickly overpowered by the leather's insistent presence—a heavy, animalic leather that dominates rather than decorates. The tonka bean and vanilla attempt reconciliation, offering sweetness, yet they're tempered by something acrid, something distinctly *wrong*: that sewage note in the base is no accident. It's a deliberate wrongness, a refusal to be palatable.
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3.9/5 (1.0k)