Clinique
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Mugwort's herbaceous bite cuts through immediately, accompanied by sharp aldehydes and lavender that create an almost green-grey opening—like crushing dried herbs in your palm. Mace adds a subtle peppery flicker, preventing the composition from settling into simple botanical territory.
The florals emerge with quiet authority: carnation's spiced density and hyacinth's cool mineralness create a refined floral core, whilst jasmine adds creamy indolic warmth without softening the composition's edges. Sandalwood begins its gentle creep, adding creamy softness to the spiced floral arrangement.
Moss, cedar, and patchouli consolidate into a dry, woody base with leather and musk providing subtle animalic texture—the composition transforms into a sophisticated green-woody chypre that becomes increasingly understated, fading rather than projecting.
Wrappings arrives as a studiously composed herbaceous green chypre that refuses sentimentality. Elie Roger's 1990 composition opens with a sharp herbaceous thrust—mugwort's slightly bitter, dusty character cutting through crisp aldehydes and lavender with surgical precision. This isn't a perfume content to whisper; it speaks in measured, deliberate tones.
The heart reveals sophisticated floristry: carnation's spiced clove undertones play beautifully against hyacinth's cool, slightly soapy minerality, whilst jasmine adds a whisper of indolic warmth without overwhelming the composition's austere sensibility. Rose and cyclamen provide structure rather than romance, anchoring the florals within the green chypre framework. There's a masculine quality here, not through aggressive musking but through the frank, unsentimental way these flowers are presented—no soft focus, no diffusion into abstraction.
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3.8/5 (194)