Dior
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The labdanum arrives first—resinous, amber-hued, with an almost burnt-sugar quality that immediately signals richness. Rose petals appear within moments, not fresh-cut but concentrated and syrupy, already entwined with the labdanum's sticky warmth. There's a fleeting sharpness, perhaps from the patchouli's green edges, before everything melds into a cohesive, honeyed-floral haze.
The patchouli fully emerges now, bringing its earthy, slightly mossy character to temper the rose's sweetness, creating a fascinating tension between opulence and restraint. The oud begins its quiet work, adding medicinal, woody shadows that give depth without dominating—it's the scent of aged wood in an antique shop rather than raw agarwood. The whole composition feels denser now, more resinous, as though the ingredients are folding into one another like layers of silk.
What remains is a beautiful, ambery wood-rose hybrid where individual notes become harder to separate. The sandalwood's creaminess comes forward, softened and slightly vanillic, whilst the labdanum continues its amber glow against skin. The rose persists as a ghost of its former self—no longer jammy but present as a rosy-woody warmth that clings intimately to the skin.
Oud Ispahan is François Demachy's love letter to Damascus roses drenched in honeyed labdanum, where the oud plays supporting actor rather than leading man. The rose here isn't demure or garden-fresh—it's the concentrated, almost jammy character you find in rose absolute, sticky with natural indoles and given weight by a magnificent labdanum accord that borders on leathery. The patchouli weaves through like dark chocolate threads, its earthy bitterness preventing the composition from tipping into cloying sweetness, whilst the sandalwood adds a creamy, subtly spiced foundation that feels more like cashmeran-softened woods than traditional Mysore.
This is a rose for those who find most rose fragrances too polite, too powdery, too nostalgic. The oud note is restrained and refined, more about whispers of medicinal woodiness and aged resins than the animalic funk or bandage-like qualities found in more confrontational ouds. It's Dior's vision of the Middle East filtered through a Parisian lens—opulent without being overwhelming, exotic without pastiche.
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3.9/5 (91)