Dorothy Gray
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Brilliant mandarin and bergamot burst forth with immediate radiance, yet within seconds that garbage note emerges—something acrid and slightly petrollic that makes you question whether you've made a terrible mistake. The citrus doesn't soften it; instead, they exist in jarring opposition, like someone's spritzed you with fresh grapefruit juice directly over rotting fruit.
The composition pivots sharply into herbaceous territory as mint and juniper berry dominate, creating an almost medicinal quality that feels closer to a gin botanical than a wearable fragrance. Geranium adds spice and slightly soapy warmth whilst cedar solidifies the base with dry, pencil-shaving woodiness—this phase feels calculated, controlled, almost austere in its structure.
Sandalwood and patchouli emerge soft and creamy, vetiver adding earthy grounding, whilst that putridity note lingers as a faint, unsettling whisper—neither pleasant nor entirely off-putting, merely present. What remains is predominantly woody with ghostly traces of that initial citrus brightness, transformed into something more shadowed and contemplative than where you started.
In the Pink is a fragrance that wears its contradictions with unsettling confidence. Isabelle Doyen has crafted something deliberately strange—a composition that wants to be a cheerful citrus-led freshness but keeps hinting at something darker lurking beneath. The bergamot and mandarin orange arrive bright and almost innocent, yet the presence of garbage and putridity in the formula signals that this is no straightforward summer scent. It's as though you're smelling a perfectly composed bouquet that's begun to decompose at its edges, beauty and decay locked in uncomfortable tension.
The heart reveals itself as almost medicinal: juniper berry lends a slight astringency whilst geranium adds a peppery, slightly animalic warmth. Mint cuts through with mentholic clarity, creating a startling freshness that feels almost clinical against the cedar's dry wooden backbone. The mysterious "bregnotrix" (likely a regional or archival ingredient name) adds another layer of intrigue—something herbaceous and vaguely unsettling that prevents this from ever settling into comfort.
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