d'Orsay
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A bright, almost bitter green-citrus burst—lemon leaf and angelica establishing themselves with herbaceous authority, whilst watermelon adds unexpected moisture and a faint tropical sweetness that keeps things from becoming austere. The first five minutes feel crisp and almost peppery, like crushing fresh herbs between your fingers.
The linden blossom unfolds into something genuinely honeyed and slightly narcotic, but the cyclamen immediately complicates matters, introducing a cool, slightly talced quality that reads as vaguely soapy and aldehydic. This is where the fragrance becomes most contemplative—the interplay between the floral warmth and its papery restraint creates genuine tension and interest.
Acacia wood and beeswax emerge to establish a warm, woody-amber base where hay contributes an earthy, sun-warmed sweetness. The composition settles into something intimate and skin-close, losing projection but gaining remarkable intimacy—a skin scent that hovers just above the collar, honeyed and woody and faintly herbal.
Tilleul is Olivia Giacobetti's love letter to a linden tree in summer—not the saccharine floral you might expect, but something considerably more cerebral and green-minded. The fragrance opens with a tart, almost herbal citrus that immediately establishes its herbaceous credentials; lemon leaf and angelica create a slightly bitter, leafy quality that prevents this from ever veering toward the pretty-pretty. The watermelon arrives as an unexpected textural element, lending a watery, almost juicy quality that grounds the composition in something touchably real rather than abstractly floral.
The heart reveals Giacobetti's true intention: a study in linden blossom's peculiar honeyed-green character, rendered intimate and slightly powdery by cyclamen's papery, cool floral undertones. This is where the fragrance becomes genuinely arresting—the cyclamen prevents the linden from becoming overly honeyed, introducing a faintly soapy, aldehydic dryness that feels unexpectedly modern for a 1995 release.
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3.9/5 (103)