Dusita
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Tunisian orange blossom and blood orange collide with immediate brightness, the citrus's bitter edge cutting through honeyed florals whilst freesia provides a green, almost pencil-shaving crispness. Within minutes, the composition settles into something less volatile, the citrus receding to reveal what lies beneath.
The tuberose surfaces gradually, lending a creamy, almost tactile quality to the peach and apricot notes, with tea introducing a subtle astringency that prevents sweetness from overwhelming. This phase is where Anamcara demonstrates its sophistication—each note occupies distinct territory rather than melting into fruity-floral soup, with vanilla absolute acting as a gentle mediator between the stone fruits and florals.
Indonesian patchouli and Australian sandalwood establish a soft, woody base as the florals retreat to whispers. Virginia cedar and Haitian vetiver provide structure and subtle greenness, transforming the fragrance into something more contemplative and grounded, with peachy sweetness lingering as a distant memory.
Anamcara arrives as a study in controlled opulence—a fragrance that understands the difference between indulgence and excess. The opening duet of Tunisian orange blossom and Italian blood orange establishes immediately that this is a citrus composition built on floral scaffolding rather than the reverse. What emerges is neither bright nor merely pretty, but rather a nuanced negotiation between the bitter aldehydic pith of blood orange and the honeyed powder of orange blossom, with freesia providing a crisp green interrupt that prevents the opening from becoming cloying.
The heart reveals Ploi Umavijani's masterful restraint: Indian tuberose absolute—typically a note that demands attention—shares space with peach, apricot, and a whisper of tea that functions as a subtle drying agent. The tuberose never overwhelms; instead, it lends a creamy, almost narcotic sensuality to the peachy sweetness, whilst Indian jasmine sambac adds a subtle green-floral thread rather than additional white floral weight. Bourbon vanilla absolute emerges as a gentle sweetener, binding the fruity accords without introducing the vanilla-sugar cliché.
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3.6/5 (122)