Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci
114 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Galbanum's green snap hits immediately, almost herbaceous, before bergamot and lavender establish a fresh, slightly aromatic opening that feels more cologne-like than floral. Freesia and orange blossom begin their work already, threading something softer through the brightness—this is a deliberate clash of green-fresh against honeyed-floral.
The rose absolute and gardenia emerge with quiet authority as the top notes fade, creating a creamy, almost porcelain-like floral accord. Honey amplifies the sweetness without tipping into gourmand territory, whilst jasmine and ylang ylang add a subtle animalic warmth that grounds everything.
The woody base asserts itself decisively—moss and cedar create an earthy, almost chypré-like dryness, with patchouli adding texture and slight spice. Tonka bean sweetness mingles with sandalwood's creamy smoothness, leaving a warm, softly woody trail that feels like expensive suede with just a whisper of amber resin clinging to its surface.
Vivara arrives as a contradiction wrapped in silk—a unisex fragrance that refuses the obvious path of powdery florals or austere woods, instead threading a needle between both territories with remarkable poise. The opening barrage of galbanum's green bite against bergamot's citric brightness creates immediate tension, but it's the freesia and orange blossom that soften this edge into something almost creamy. What's compelling here is how the composition treats its rose trinity (Bulgarian, May, Absolute) not as the predictable heart of a feminine fragrance, but as supporting players to a woodsy, almost earthy narrative. The honey and ylang ylang add a subtle sweetness—never cloying, never obvious—that prevents this from drifting into either austere cologne territory or saccharine floral excess.
The woody accord dominates at 100%, and that foundation of moss, cedar, and patchouli gives Vivara genuine presence, a slightly rough-hewn quality that feels distinctly unisex. There's an unexpected spiciness too (88% accord strength), likely emerging from the interaction between tonka bean's vanilla warmth and those woody elements, creating something faintly incense-like. The sandalwood provides creamy ballast, whilst the patchouli adds earthy reality. This is a fragrance for those drawn to restrained elegance—the wearer who favours suggestion over announcement, who appreciates floral beauty without wanting to announce it across a room. It suits autumn afternoons and evening occasions equally, the kind of scent you return to between seasons because it genuinely improves with familiarity.
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3.7/5 (301)