Ermenegildo Zegna
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The fig burst is immediate and almost startling—a sweet-tart plum skin character that catches you by surprise, immediately joined by a peppery spice that's neither warm nor aggressive. Within five minutes, clary sage emerges as a cool counterpoint, creating an almost herbal-fruity tension that feels deliberately constructed rather than coincidental.
The fragrance settles into its true personality here—the fig recedes to a supporting sweetness whilst clary sage takes command, its dusty-green peppery character becoming increasingly prominent. The spice accord amplifies, adding subtle warmth without veering into oriental territory, and the composition achieves a green-spicy balance that feels both naturalistic and refined.
Sandalwood gradually surfaces, bringing creamy woody notes and a subtle sweetness that prevents the fragrance from drying into pure green. The fig becomes almost imperceptible, replaced by a soft woody-herbal base where sage and sandalwood commune quietly on skin—a delicate, intimate finale that rewards close proximity.
Z Zegna Milan presents itself as a pragmatist's fragrance—urbane without pretension, green without being austere. The fig arrives with unexpected juiciness, that almost jammy ripeness that Trudi Loren harnesses to prevent the composition from drifting into the austere territory many unisex scents inhabit. This isn't the honeyed fig of gourmands; instead, it's a slightly tart, skin-forward interpretation that immediately establishes the fragrance's sophisticated restraint.
What makes Z Zegna Milan genuinely compelling is how the clary sage refuses to play backdrop. Rather than the herbal whisper typical of heart notes, it commands presence—slightly peppery, faintly medicinal, with that peculiar dusty-green character that catches you mid-breath. The sage-fig interaction creates something neither fruity nor herbal in isolation, but a hybrid space where fresh green tea meets dried apricot leather.
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Yves Saint Laurent
3.9/5 (386)