Escada
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Pear and grapefruit leap forward with almost snack-like immediacy, whilst the ambrette seed adds a subtle, peppery-almost spicy undertone that prevents the fruit from becoming cloying. It's bright without being shrill—refreshingly sweet but grounded.
Prune and plum bloom gradually, introducing darker, almost dried-fruit characteristics that sit in warm contrast to the citrus memory fading above. Turkish rose softens the effect, lending a velvety quality as ylang ylang creeps in, creating an unexpectedly creamy, almost skin-scent sensuality.
Vanilla and white musk dominate what little remains, the patchouli adding subtle earthiness and warmth that transforms the overall impression into something almost powdery and intimate. The fragrance has diminished considerably—this is barely perceptible, a breath rather than a presence.
Especially Escada Elixir arrives as a study in candied restraint—a fragrance that whispers rather than announces, yet carries surprising sensuality within its modest projection. Jean-Michel Duriez has constructed something rather clever here: the opening pear and Ecuadorian ambrette seed establish a juicy, almost edible sweetness before grapefruit introduces tartness that prevents cloying. What distinguishes this from typical fruity florals is the prune and plum interplay in the heart, which reads less as jammy indulgence and more as a sophisticated play on stone fruit's darker, almost fermented undertones. Turkish rose absolute provides structural support without the grandeur one might expect—it sits comfortably beneath the fruit rather than commanding attention, whilst ylang ylang adds a fleshy, slightly creamy dimension that blurs the boundary between floral and gourmand.
The base construction reveals an almost deliberate understatement: patchouli and amber create a warm, slightly earthy scaffold, whilst bourbon vanilla and white musk add softness rather than projection. There's a synthetic quality threaded throughout (52% according to the accords) that keeps everything hovering in the middle distance—nothing quite reaches out to grab you, yet nothing feels artificial or jarring.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.6/5 (91)