Estēe Lauder
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright lemon and peach burst forth with immediate citrus snap, undercut immediately by galbanum's sharp, almost green-metallic bite that makes your skin prickle. The effect is simultaneously refreshing and slightly austere—you're getting a preview of the discipline to come.
As the fruity sweetness recedes, thyme and pine sharpen the composition into something herbaceous and vaguely spiced, whilst rosewood adds warm woody depth beneath jasmine's creamy floral undertone. The fragrance transforms into a complex green-woody study, all structure and measured elegance, far more sophisticated than the opening suggested.
Oakmoss, vetiver, and myrrh settle into a subtly resinous, earthy base with lingering herbal notes—bittersweet and woody rather than musk-soft, creating an almost austere finish that hovers close to the skin like a memory of botanical complexity.
Aliage is a fragrance that refuses to whisper. From 1972, Francis Camail crafted something deliberately austere—a chypre that pivots sharply away from the powdered florals dominating its era, instead embracing the sharp green architecture of galbanum and thyme like a modernist building's clean lines. The peach and lemon opening promises something fruity and approachable, but that's merely the anteroom; the real story unfolds in the heart, where galbanum's almost metallic greenness clashes brilliantly with rosewood's woody warmth and jasmine's honeyed softness. Thyme adds a culinary, almost herbal spice—you're not wearing flowers, you're wearing a botanist's field notes.
This is an uncompromisingly green chypre with genuine bite. The oakmoss and vetiver base anchors everything with earthy certainty, whilst myrrh introduces a subtle bittersweet resinousness that keeps the fragrance from ever feeling clean or fresh in the modern sense. Instead, it's deliberate, structured, vaguely intellectual. Aliage suits someone with strong opinions—a woman or man equally comfortable in a 1970s design studio or walking through English countryside. It's the scent of someone who chose precisely this, not something that happened to them. There's an almost masculine restraint here, a rejection of conventional prettiness in favour of green, woody complexity. You'd wear this when the fragrance itself matters more than conforming to expectations.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
4.0/5 (135)