Estevia
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The tangerine arrives first with a burst of essential oils, slightly bitter pith included, before raspberry's seeds-and-all texture adds dimension. There's a fleeting moment where the two fruits create an almost sparkling effect, like citrus sherbet with berry coulis, before the florals begin their emergence.
Peony takes centre stage with its characteristic green crispness, acting as scaffolding for the May rose absolute that blooms slowly beneath it. The rose never dominates; instead, it weaves through the peony's fresh petals, creating a bouquet that feels picked rather than arranged, with musk already whispering at the edges.
Skin-warmed amber and musk merge into that particular early-2000s glow—polished, clean, unmistakably feminine. The patchouli merely sketches shadows beneath the composition, whilst a fine powder settles over everything like translucent finishing powder, softening without obscuring the persistent rose-musk harmony.
Estevia presents Julie Massé's vision of early-2000s femininity, where fruit wasn't yet syrupy and florals still had breathing room. The opening tangerine-raspberry pairing avoids the jammy sweetness that would become ubiquitous a few years later, instead offering a bright, almost effervescent quality—think freshly squeezed citrus cutting through the raspberry's natural tartness rather than fruit compote. This restraint allows the floral heart to properly assert itself, with peony's crisp, almost aqueous character providing lift to the richer May rose absolute. That pairing is clever: peony stops the rose from becoming too honeyed or soliflorous, maintaining an airy freshness even as the petals unfold.
The base structure is where Estevia shows its 2002 sensibilities most clearly. Musk and amber create that clean, skin-like warmth that defined the era's commercial florals, whilst a judicious touch of patchouli adds just enough earthiness to anchor the composition without veering into hippie territory. The result reads as confidently pretty rather than challenging—a fragrance for someone who wants to smell distinctly feminine without the weight of classic chypres or the cloying sweetness of gourmands. The powdery accord that develops suggests quality face powder rather than baby products, that subtle cosmetic elegance that speaks to grooming rituals and feminine mystique. This is the fragrance of a woman who coordinates her handbag with her shoes, who knows exactly which shade of lipstick suits her, and who finds empowerment in traditional femininity rather than apology.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.3/5 (147)