Filippo Sorcinelli
Filippo Sorcinelli
83 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The artemisia-lavender combination strikes with immediate herbal astringency, casting shadow over the citrus. There's something almost medicinal here—like standing in a dispensary rather than a perfumery—as lemon tries unsuccessfully to lift the mood.
Styrax emerges as a warm, resinous anchor, bringing a subtle animality that softens the green notes without sweetening them. Calamus and cascarilla add woody, slightly acrid complexity, whilst rosemary prevents the composition from ever becoming conventionally comfortable.
The base settles into a skin-scent intimacy where oakmoss and musk dominate, creating an ambiguous, slightly powdery quality. Galbanum's green bite persists stubbornly alongside earthy angelica and soft sandalwood, refusing easy resolution until finally dissolving into faint whispers of amber.
_but not today_ announces itself as a fragrance for the deliberately contrary—those who reject straightforward florality in favour of something altogether more conflicted. Sorcinelli's composition is built on a fascinating tension between refinement and animalic provocation, where the artemisia's bitter-green bite immediately complicates the citrus brightness that threatens to make this conventionally pleasant. There's an almost herbal defiance in the top notes, as though lemon and bergamot are being actively resisted by the lavender's cooler, dusty edges.
The heart reveals the fragrance's true character: a styrax-led warmth that's unmistakably animalic, backed by the distinctly medicinal edge of calamus and the slightly wooden dryness of cascarilla. Rosemary threads through this middle section like a whisper of kitchen garden realism, grounding what could otherwise drift into orientalist sweetness. This is where _but not today_ becomes genuinely interesting—it refuses sentimentality.
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3.6/5 (106)