Filippo Sorcinelli
Filippo Sorcinelli
90 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Mirabelle plum and bright bergamot burst forth with an almost tart vivacity, grapefruit and lemon sharpening the edges before heliotrope's almond-tinged warmth rounds the corners. It's an opening that smells like you've just bitten into summer fruit with your eyes closed.
The florals unfurl gradually—ylang-ylang and freesia create a honeyed, creamy veil whilst sugar powder catches the light like dust motes. Blackcurrant emerges as a dark counterpoint to the lily of the valley's pale brightness, and rose settles in with quiet sophistication, the entire chord feeling like silk pyjamas against skin.
Sandalwood and cedarwood crystallise the composition into something more austere and contemplative, whilst amber and ambrette provide a creamy, almost skin-scent warmth. Patchouli adds earthy weight without heaviness, and the musk base stretches the fragrance into a quiet, intimate hum that lingers as suggestion rather than declaration.
Scusami arrives as a meticulously composed apology wrapped in silk and stone fruit—a fragrance that treats sweetness as a sophisticated verb rather than a blunt instrument. The mirabelle plum and bergamot opening signals restraint, but the real intrigue lies in how Sorcinelli orchestrates the floral heart: ylang-ylang and freesia create a creamy, almost indolic warmth that the sugar powder doesn't so much amplify as refract, adding a translucent shimmer rather than saccharine thickness. This is where lily of the valley does the heavy lifting, its crisp aldehydic spine preventing the rose and blackcurrant from becoming another forgettable fruity-floral confection.
The base reveals the designer's ambition—sandalwood and cedarwood provide genuine woody architecture, whilst ambrette (that underrated musk component) lends a subtle animalic sexuality that keeps the composition from feeling airbrushed. Patchouli lurks beneath the amber and vanilla musk, never dominating but preventing the whole affair from floating away into anonymous femininity. The powdery accord threads throughout like talc dissolved in cream, lending a skin-like quality that makes this feel less like wearing fragrance and more like wearing a second, more refined version of yourself.
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4.0/5 (198)