Geoffrey Beene
Geoffrey Beene
724 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A punchy citric flare of lemon and bergamot crashes into galbanum's green, slightly metallic vegetation, creating an almost aldehydic freshness that feels almost herbaceous-sharp—like neroli cutting through fresh-pressed linen. The petitgrain adds a subtle bitterness, preventing any warmth from taking hold.
Violet and iris gradually soften the initial green austerity, introducing a powdery, soapy florality that mingles with sage's peppery-herbal notes and geranium's green spiciness. The fragrance becomes more introspective here, less about assault and more about quiet refinement, though the floral heart remains decidedly cool and restrained.
Cedar and oakmoss emerge with vetiver's earthy tobacco-like character, whilst a subtle almond-tonka sweetness provides the faintest warmth—yet the composition never develops the generous base longevity one might expect. The fragrance fades rather than lingers, eventually becoming a phantom scent detectable only in the folds of fabric.
Grey Flannel arrives as a clarion declaration of 1970s restraint—a fragrance that smells like the crispest shirt fresh from the laundry, pressed to architectural perfection. André Fromentin's composition leads with an almost astringent galbanum-lemon-neroli triumvirate that feels less like a perfume and more like a sensory palate cleanser. There's a particular sharpness here, a green herbaceous bite that prevents the fragrance from ever becoming sweet or indulgent.
The heart reveals Fromentin's restraint: violet and iris emerge as whispered florals rather than proclamations, their powdery geometry enhanced by a subtle sage and geranium undercurrent that reads almost medicinal. The narcissus and rose stay in the background, contributing a faint soapiness rather than romance. It's the scent of a well-tailored waistcoat, of pressed creases and starched collars, of someone who considers fragrance a footnote to impeccable grooming rather than a statement.
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3.5/5 (87)