Goutal
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Frankincense and labdanum hit with immediate amber-resinous intensity, dense and almost suffocating in its richness—think cathedral incense mixed with dried apricot leather. The styrax adds a subtle sweetness beneath this aromatic weight, creating an opening that feels considerably more austere than it has any right to be for a fragrance this sweet-leaning.
The resinous framework softens as benzoin emerges with its characteristic almond-like warmth, whilst geranium introduces a crisp, slightly peppery green thread that cuts through the amber's stickiness. Here the Russian leather note reveals itself, adding a dry, smoky dimension that prevents the fragrance from becoming merely another vanilla-amber composition.
The fragrance becomes increasingly skin-scent territory as patchouli deepens the base into something earthy and weathered. Vanilla and leather merge into a soft, almost cuddly close that bears little resemblance to the opening's ecclesiastical drama—though longevity challenges mean this phase arrives quietly and departs all too quickly.
Ambre Fétiche occupies an intriguing space between liturgical solemnity and sensual warmth—a fragrance that smells like it's been aged in a leather-bound book within an apothecary's cabinet. The opening resinous triad of frankincense, labdanum, and styrax immediately establishes an almost ecclesiastical intensity, yet this isn't pious restraint; it's decadence wrapped in incense smoke. As these resins settle, they reveal the fragrance's true architecture: a benzoin-iris heart that introduces a powdery, slightly green counterpoint to the amber base. The interplay between geranium's sharp green leaf and benzoin's vanillic sweetness prevents this from becoming cloying, whilst the Russian leather note anchors everything in something tactile and slightly austere—imagine worn suede that's absorbed decades of tobacco and wood smoke.
This is fundamentally an amber fragrance for those who find typical amber compositions saccharine. The patchouli arrives as earthy ballast rather than prominence, and vanilla acts as a binder rather than a primary character. There's a distinctly masculine energy here despite its unisex classification; the resinous-smoky profile (88% and 64% respectively) reads as contemplative rather than playful. It suits someone drawn to vintage leather goods, monastery bells, and autumn afternoons spent indoors. The fragrance rewards closer proximity—this is not a statement scent—making it ideal for quiet moments of self-directed olfactory pleasure rather than commanding a room. Wear it when you want to smell like you've returned from somewhere ancient and mysterious.
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4.2/5 (259)