Gucci
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Roman chamomile arrives with its characteristic apple-skin sweetness, but there's an unexpected soapiness—not clean in the conventional sense, but rather like glycerine melted into warm green tea. It's immediately soft, immediately close to the skin, with a freshness that feels filtered through gauze rather than sharply defined.
The musk emerges as the dominant player, creating a blurred, second-skin effect that makes the chamomile feel like a memory rather than a present accord. The nyctanthes adds just enough floral weight to prevent the composition from becoming entirely abstract, its subtle jasmine-like facets peeking through the haze like streetlamps through fog.
What remains is a creamy, woody-musky veil with the faintest suggestion of vanilla holding it together. The woods never become prominent, instead contributing a soft, almost powdery texture that makes the fragrance feel like it's dissolving into your skin rather than sitting atop it—a scent that exists in the space between wearing something and wearing nothing at all.
Mémoire d'une Odeur opens with the bruised-apple sweetness of Roman chamomile, its herbaceous edges softened and blurred like a watercolour left in the rain. This isn't the crisp, medicinal chamomile of tea; Morillas has coaxed out its oddly narcotic, slightly fermented quality—a green that feels picked at dusk rather than dawn. The heart introduces an abstracted musk that hovers between skin and air, neither animalic nor laundry-fresh, whilst the mysterious nyctanthes arbor tristis (night-flowering jasmine) adds a subtle floralcy that's more impression than statement—a whisper of white petals caught in the chamomile's verdant haze.
What makes this fragrance peculiar is its deliberate haziness. The cedar and sandalwood never assert themselves as recognisable woods; instead, they create a soft, almost dusty backdrop that lets the chamomile-musk pairing float in an undefined space. A touch of vanilla rounds the edges without sweetening aggressively, maintaining the composition's dreamlike quality. It's the olfactory equivalent of a photograph slightly out of focus—you can discern the subject, but the details remain tantalizingly imprecise.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.5/5 (141)