John Varvatos
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A brilliant mandarin-tangelo burst arrives immediately, sharpened considerably by angelica root's almost liquorice-like earthiness and galbanum's green bite. The paradisamide establishes itself as a subtle ozonic whisper, lending airiness without the typical salty-mineral freshness of conventional aquatics.
The composition pivots decisively toward aromatic green territory as clary sage and basil step forward, their slightly bitter, herbal character supported by coriander's spice and geranium's rose-leaf dryness. Palmarosa introduces a gentle floral warmth that prevents the composition from becoming austere, whilst jasmine sambac adds a creamy whisper that softens the overall herbaceous austerity.
The citrus fades considerably, leaving moss, fir balsam, and patchouli to construct a muted, earthy conclusion that feels more botanical than aromatic—a green, slightly woody finish that dissipates quietly rather than lingering with any notable presence.
Artisan Acqua presents itself as a peculiar beast—simultaneously herbaceous and citrus-driven, yet caught somewhere between fresh cologne and green fougère without fully committing to either camp. Rodrigo Flores-Roux constructs an opening dominated by mandarin and tangelo that feels almost medicinal rather than gourmand, a dryness imparted by the galbanum and angelica root that prevents the composition from ever veering into fruity sweetness. The paradisamide—that synthetic aquatic molecule—hovers throughout like a phantom, lending the fragrance a faintly ozonic quality that never quite gels into a cohesive "fresh aquatic."
What emerges is a restless aromatic composition, one that treats its herbals as primary players rather than supporting cast. Clary sage and basil possess a slightly soapy edge when paired with coriander and geranium, whilst jasmine sambac and palmarosa add a subtle floral-herbal warmth that prevents the composition from becoming purely aromatic and detergent-like. There's a curious tension between the aquatic pretensions and the decidedly terrestrial base—moss, fir balsam, and patchouli anchor what might otherwise float away entirely.
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4.0/5 (135)