John Varvatos
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A jolting clash of blood orange and blackcurrant bud explodes across your skin, immediately tempered by cool mint and a herbal thrust of thyme and basil that feels almost medicinal. Galbanum and boxwood create an unexpected greenness—sharp, slightly austere, like breaking fresh herbs between your fingers on a cold morning, the citrus darting nervously around these green architectural pillars.
The spice emerges with surprising subtlety: cardamom and coriander seed settle the composition without sweetening it, whilst orange blossom and neroli add a peppery floral quality that feels oddly masculine and vintage. The fragrance becomes less nervous and more considered, the citrus mellowing into something more textured, with jasmine adding an almost soapy sophistication that prevents any cloying sweetness.
Leather, vetiver, and patchouli anchor everything into earth and tobacco-tinged wood, the citrus now a distant memory, the spice absorbed into shadow. What remains is something warm yet restrained—a worn leather jacket and soil smell rather than anything conventionally beautiful, with just enough orris root brightness to prevent it from turning entirely nocturnal.
John Varvatos Artisan Black announces itself as a deeply unconventional citrus—one that refuses the predictable sunshine route. Rodrigo Flores-Roux has constructed something far more intricate: a blood orange and blackcurrant bud pairing that sits uncomfortably sharp against mint and thyme, creating an almost herbal green tension rather than sweetness. The opening bristles with an almost medicinal quality, those top notes (galbanum and boxwood) lending an architectural sharpness that prevents this from ever feeling approachable or crowd-pleasing.
What's remarkable is how the spice accord (76%) never dominates—instead, cardamom and coriander seed whisper beneath the citrus rather than announce themselves. The orange blossom and jasmine in the heart arrive with a peppery restraint, lending the fragrance an almost masculine floral quality, the kind you'd find in vintage barbershop preparations rather than contemporary designer fragrances. This is a scent built on tension and contradiction: fresh yet shadowed, spicy yet refined, green yet somehow darkened.
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3.8/5 (76)