Joop!
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The grapefruit-caraway combination erupts with aggressive freshness, almost medicinal in its clarity—think citrus zest meeting rye bread spice. Rosemary adds a green, almost menthol-adjacent bite that sharpens the entire composition into something unexpectedly austere for an unisex eau de toilette.
As the citrus volatiles dissipate, heliotrope emerges with its powdery-sweet almond character, immediately softening the opening's harshness. Coriander weaves in with peppery coolness, and the vodka note reveals itself as a glassine transparency that prevents any note from gaining substantial depth—everything feels suspended rather than blended.
Musk, tonka bean, and vetiver attempt a gentle finish, but with virtually no longevity, they're barely perceptible beyond two hours. What lingers is a faint, soapy sweetness and a whisper of woody vetiver—a quiet, anticlimactic conclusion to what started as a rather forceful composition.
Joop! Jump is a fragrance caught between ambition and execution—a scent that reaches for something distinctive but stumbles on its own synthetic scaffolding. Sophie Labbé's composition opens with a bracing trinity of grapefruit, caraway, and rosemary that suggests botanical clarity, yet there's an unmistakable plasticity underpinning the citrus. The caraway is particularly curious, lending an almost herbaceous, seed-like bite that prevents this from reading as a standard citrus freshie. It's this unexpected spice note that gives Jump its personality—a sharp, slightly savoury edge that distinguishes it from the crowd.
The heart reveals heliotrope and coriander playing an odd duet. Heliotrope typically brings almond-tinged sweetness with a powdery, almost cosmetic quality; here it clashes with the coriander's cool, almost peppery spice. There's a vodka note listed, which likely contributes to Jump's razor-sharp transparency and that slightly soapy, clean-burning character throughout. The contrast between the sweetness trying to bloom and the herbal-spicy resistance creates an engaging tension, if not an entirely harmonious one.
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4.2/5 (85)