Joop!
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Coriander bursts forth with an almost medicinal ping—sharp, peppery, and decidedly un-gourmand despite the spice. Within moments, a synthetic aquatic emerges, creating an off-putting clash between savoury herb and watery clean musk that makes you question whether you've applied fragrance or something pharmaceutical.
Cardamom softens the initial discord somewhat, introducing genuine warmth and a faint sweetness that briefly suggests this might cohere into something pleasant. The seawater note persists obstinately, however, refusing to integrate with the spiced warmth and maintaining that unsettling synthetic sheen throughout the middle hours.
Cedarwood and labdanum eventually establish themselves, but with minimal presence—barely noticeable whispers that fade within hours. The composition deteriorates into a faint, nondescript woody-aquatic haze, leaving behind little evidence of its initial spiced conviction.
Joop! Splash arrives as a peculiar collision between spice merchant and seaside promenade—coriander leading with an almost savoury brightness that immediately signals this is no conventional flanker. Louise Turner has crafted something genuinely strange here: the coriander's peppery, slightly citric character dominates the composition with an assertiveness that feels almost herbal in its insistence. What unfolds is a fragrance caught between competing impulses—the cardamom in the heart attempts to deepen the narrative with its warm, slightly sweet spiciness, yet this warmth refuses to anchor itself properly. Instead, the "seawater" accord intrudes with synthetic saltiness, creating an uncomfortable tension rather than harmony. The woody base of cedarwood and labdanum arrives too late and with insufficient weight to resolve matters, sitting beneath like furniture in an unfurnished room.
This is a fragrance for the curious contrarian—someone who wears scents as conversation starters rather than comfort objects. It possesses the disjointed charm of an experimental indie release, yet carries the commercial DNA of its house. The heavy synthetic weighting (64%) is unmistakable, lending the composition an almost plasticky aquatic quality that prevents immersion. Wear it when you're testing boundaries, when you're intrigued rather than soothed, when conventional fragrance grammar feels claustrophobic. It's a Saturday afternoon dabble, not a signature. Most will find it challenging; some will find it admirably uncompromising.
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3.1/5 (731)