Jovoy
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Whisky ignites first, its sharp alcohol cutting through a peppery, almost clove-like spice whilst sesame oil adds an unexpected savoury undertone that's vaguely mineral. The rum follows, lending warmth but no smoothness—it's a forceful entry, more warming draught than welcoming embrace.
The leather crystallises, developing a distinctly worn quality alongside tobacco leaf that hasn't yet been cured into submission. Coffee and tea layer in, creating a bitter-aromatic spine that makes the composition feel somehow more liquid, more drinkable; the spice settles into a warmer cinnamon territory whilst the sesame fades to a ghost of its former savouriness.
Ebony wood dominates now, a dry, almost pencil-shaving quality that grounds everything in austere naturalism. Benzoin emerges as a faintly resinous hum, smoky and incense-like, whilst vanilla makes its sole significant appearance—a gentle sweetness that provides respite without compromise. What remains is a leather-and-wood base that feels almost archaeological, as though Schnirer has preserved something antique.
Pavillon Rouge announces itself as a fragrance built on friction—the clash between refinement and raw material. Marie Schnirer has constructed something decidedly unflinching here: whisky and rum don't merely perfume the opening so much as they *colonise* it, their alcoholic burn cutting through a sharp spice accord that reads almost medicinal. This is no gentle Oriental; the sesame adds an almost savoury grain that prevents the composition from drifting into the typical amber sweetness one might expect.
The leather in the heart is substantial, almost leather jacket rather than fine suede—it carries the tobacco smoke trapped in fabric, rendered more intoxicating by the coffee and tea notes that seem to steep the entire composition in a kind of liquid tannin. There's something almost herbaceous here, a slight bitterness that recalls tea leaves still unfurled, alongside the roasted grip of dark coffee. It's the kind of scent that feels masculine-coded not through aggression but through its refusal to appease.
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3.7/5 (138)