Jovoy
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The citrus is a trapdoor that opens and shuts in seconds, depositing you directly into wet, dark patchouli earth studded with geranium's green-metallic brightness. There's an immediate resinous quality from the cistus, giving the opening a slightly sticky, labdanum-adjacent warmth that clings to the patch like amber to tree bark.
The rose emerges properly now, though it's a rose seen through frosted glass—present but deliberately obscured by the patchouli's earthy dominance and geranium's sharper edges. The spicy aspect intensifies, reading as the natural pepper-clove facets of good patchouli rather than added spice notes, whilst the cistus builds its leathery-resinous framework around everything.
What remains is a surprisingly tender thing: vanillic amber warmed by skin-close musk, with just enough patchouli shadow to remind you where you've been. The earthiness never fully retreats, but it's softened now, sweet without being cloying, animalic without being challenging—a musky-amber glow dusted with cocoa-dark patchouli residue.
Psychédélique opens with a mischievous wink—a flash of citrus that vanishes almost before you've registered it, leaving you to tumble headlong into an earthen cathedral of patchouli. This is patchouli as protagonist, not supporting player: dense, humic, almost tactile in its richness, the Indonesian variety bringing that characteristic chocolate-earth darkness that sits heavy on the tongue. Jacques Flori has built a kaleidoscope around it, the geranium adding a metallic-rose brightness that vibrates against the patch's low rumble, whilst cistus weaves through with its leathery, ambery resinousness. There's an odd, brilliant tension here—the rose note feels compressed, pressed between layers of soil and resin like a petal in an old book, its sweetness muted but persistent.
This isn't a fragrance that apologises for itself. The spice element reads as pepper-tinged earthiness rather than distinct spice notes, a prickling quality that keeps the composition from collapsing into hippie nostalgia. By the base, Psychédélique reveals its true nature: a cosy amber-vanilla embrace that's been thoroughly dirtied, musk providing animalic warmth without screaming its presence. It's for those who've exhausted the clean patchoulis and want something with genuine grit under its fingernails. Wear this when you want to smell like the most interesting person in the room—the one who's just returned from somewhere neither Instagram-friendly nor easily explained. It's resolutely unisex in that genuinely androgynous way, refusing to lean masculine or feminine, instead occupying its own peculiar territory.
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Etro
3.8/5 (199)