L'Erbolario
L'Erbolario
109 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Lemon and orange arrive with Mediterranean vigour, sharp and energising, but within minutes coriander's dusty spice begins threading through the citrus, suggesting something more herbal than purely fresh. The top notes feel almost edible—like zest scattered across herbs drying in afternoon heat.
Artemisia and lavender emerge as the citrus ebbs, creating a green, slightly bitter heart that's entirely compelling. Cardamom's warmth now dominates, mingling with soft clove undertones, whilst the fragrance transforms into something genuinely aromatic—less cologne, more contemplative botanical study.
Cedar and patchouli form a woody, earthy foundation as benzoin Siam's sweetness blooms softly, creating an almost ambery warmth. Musk provides subtle skin-scent sensuality, the spice settling into a gentle pepper that lingers as a whisper of dried herbs and distant woodsmoke.
L'Erbolario's Assenzio is a fragrance that refuses easy categorisation—it's simultaneously a bright citrus splash and a smouldering herbal incense, anchored by unexpected spice and woodsy depth. The opening assault of lemon and orange gives way to something far more complex: artemisia (wormwood's gentler cousin) mingles with coriander to create an almost medicinal freshness, whilst cardamom introduces a peppery warmth that prevents this from reading as a simple eau de cologne. There's lavender here too, but it's not the soapy comfort of mainstream fragrances; instead, it acts as a bridge between the green, slightly bitter herbs and the base's darker intentions.
What makes Assenzio compelling is how it destabilises your expectations. You anticipate a fresh herbal composition—something crisp and morning-shower appropriate—but cedar and clove emerge to darken the affair, whilst benzoin Siam adds a honeyed, almost narcotic sweetness that contradicts the opening's apparent innocence. Patchouli grounds everything in earthiness, occasionally threatening to tip into incense territory before musk rounds the corners. The spicy accord dominates throughout, meaning this never becomes a passive, background whisper; it demands attention.
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3.5/5 (147)