L'Erbolario
L'Erbolario
364 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Rum-soaked caramel dominates immediately, boozy and thick, with bergamot oil providing just enough citric brightness to keep the sweetness from becoming oppressive. There's a fleeting moment where orange zest sparkles through before the composition settles into its unabashedly dessert-like character, warm and enveloping from the first spray.
The floral accord emerges gradually, jasmine and rose weaving through cinnamon-dusted cocoa in an unexpectedly harmonious marriage of patisserie and perfumery. Elderflower adds a subtle honeyed quality whilst lily of the valley introduces a green, almost soapy counterpoint that prevents the spice and chocolate from overwhelming. The sweetness intensifies here, but the florals provide architectural structure.
Bitter almond and tonka bean create a marzipan-like softness, whilst vanilla melds with benzoin into a resinous, balsamic warmth. The moss and patchouli finally assert themselves, lending an earthy, slightly mossy foundation that keeps the base from dissolving into generic vanilla sweetness—an unexpected sophistication that lingers closest to skin.
Dolcelisir is unapologetically maximalist—a baroque confection that reads like an Italian pasticceria translated into liquid form. The opening salvo of boozy rum and burnt caramel crashes into bergamot with surprising elegance, the citrus oil cutting through the sweetness just enough to prevent complete saccharine collapse. This is the rare gourmand that acknowledges its own excess whilst maintaining a thread of sophistication through its floral heart, where jasmine and rose swim through cocoa powder and cinnamon like petals scattered across a cup of cioccolata calda.
What prevents Dolcelisir from tipping into novelty territory is the genuinely complex base, where bitter almond introduces a marzipan-like textural quality that plays brilliantly against the expected vanilla-tonka pairing. The ambergris and benzoin lend an almost resinous warmth, whilst patchouli and moss—unexpected guests at this dessert table—ground the composition with an earthy, slightly bitter foundation that keeps the sweetness from becoming cloying. It's this tension between indulgence and restraint that makes the fragrance compelling.
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3.6/5 (1.1k)