Loewe
Loewe
100 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Neroli pierces first with almost aggressive brightness, immediately tempered by tangerine's deeper, more diffuse citric warmth. Ginger appears as a whisper of heat at the edges, suggesting complexity to come rather than declaring itself outright.
The florals bloom into something honeyed and enveloping, with orange blossom and jasmine creating a lush, almost creamy texture whilst ylang-ylang adds a subtle animalic undertone. Here the fragrance reveals its true character—not cheerful, but rather intimate and warmly enveloping, with the cocoa emerging as a grounding, almost dusty sweetness.
Frankincense and amber dominate, the cocoa now deepening into something closer to cocoa powder than chocolate, lending an austere, temple-like quality to the remaining sweetness. The fragrance becomes increasingly skin-scent intimate, a warm amber glow with persistent but gentle spiced warmth lingering in the base.
Un Paseo por Madrid captures that peculiar Madrid moment when afternoon light softens into evening—a fragrance that smells like wandering through Plaza de Oriente as the city exhales. This is florals rendered with surprising restraint; the neroli and tangerine opening suggests citrus, but what follows is decidedly not fresh-casual. Rather, Emilio Valeros constructs something altogether more contemplative, where orange blossom and jasmine don't chirp cheerfully but instead settle into a warm, honeyed reverie. There's an almost velvet quality to the heart, courtesy of ylang-ylang's buttery restraint beneath the florals—it prevents the composition from veering into soapy territory.
What distinguishes this from standard floral-ambers is the cocoa note's behaviour. Rather than adding gourmand sweetness, it introduces an unexpected earthiness, a dusty warmth that speaks to terracotta buildings and old stone. The frankincense arrives as a grounding agent, lending the sweetness a spiritual dimension—less perfume-counter decadence, more incense-threaded contemplation. The spice (that ginger from the top) never announces itself loudly; instead, it weaves through like a barely perceptible warmth.
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3.6/5 (81)