Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela
386 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The heliotrope announces itself like a puff of loose powder, its marzipan sweetness immediately tempered by bergamot's citric snap and a surprisingly sharp streak of galbanum that smells green and almost resinous. The neroli adds a soft-focus floral halo, but this is primarily about that distinctive powdery-waxy accord that genuinely does evoke lipstick fresh from its tube.
The orris concrete emerges fully now, all cold, earthy root and makeup-counter sophistication, whilst the orange blossom absolute brings an almost narcotic floral sweetness that borders on heady. The galbanum's bitterness has retreated but still lurks underneath, stopping this from becoming completely saccharine, though only just.
Pure comfort food now—the tonka and vanilla have merged into a single creamy-sweet cloud, with just enough patchouli to add a subtle woody darkness that keeps this from smelling entirely like pudding. The powdery quality persists, softer and skin-close, like the faint scent of cosmetics that lingers on pillowcases after you've removed your makeup.
Lipstick On captures that peculiar intimacy of cosmetic powder and waxy pigment pressed against skin—not the glossy, fruit-stained lip lacquers of today, but the proper lipsticks your grandmother kept in gilt compacts. The heliotrope does the heavy lifting here, its almond-cherry sweetness blooming immediately into a cloud of vintage face powder, whilst the orris concrete adds that distinctive, almost dusty iris root quality that smells more like cold cream and pressed compacts than living flowers. There's a fascinating interplay between the galbanum's green bitterness and the neroli's petally brightness in the opening, preventing this from collapsing into pure confectionery, though the orange blossom absolute soon tips the scales firmly toward indolic sweetness. The bourbon vanilla and tonka pairing in the base creates that characteristic Replica plushness—creamy, rounded, almost edible—whilst a whisper of patchouli adds just enough shadow to suggest lipstick traces on a collar rather than freshly applied colour. This is for those who find comfort in the ritual of beautification itself, who understand that artifice can be its own form of honesty. Worn by someone who appreciates the theatre of femininity without necessarily subscribing to its rules—equally at home on a person getting ready for the evening or winding down after. It's unabashedly pretty, occasionally cloying, and wholly unapologetic about its retro-glamorous intentions.
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3.8/5 (164)