Mancera
Mancera
202 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright citrus and green notes create an almost cologne-like freshness, sharp bergamot cutting through with a mentholated quality. There's immediate sweetness underneath, synthetic and cloying, whilst the promised oud lurks somewhere beneath the scrubbed surface like something expensive wrapped in too much tissue paper.
Orris root emerges with its signature powdery elegance, meeting earthy patchouli in a surprisingly sophisticated dance that recalls vintage makeup compacts. The florals—rose, violet, ylang ylang—blur into a soapy, slightly indolic cloud, sweet verging on syrupy, whilst that neutered oud continues its polite haunting in the background.
Vanilla dominates the final act, smoothing everything into a woody-amber haze with vague leather undertones that smell more like a department store's leather goods section than any saddle. The sweetness persists, now joined by a synthetic muskiness, creating a skin scent that's pleasant but utterly forgettable—expensive nothingness that whispers rather than speaks.
Aoud Blue Notes is Mancera's attempt at rendering oud polite—perhaps too polite. The opening is a sharp green burst, where bergamot and citrus slice through with the precision of a well-honed knife against a cutting board, but there's an artificial sweetness hovering at the edges, like someone's sprayed air freshener in a forest. The oud itself, when it arrives, is abstract and diluted, more suggestion than statement. It's been scrubbed clean, polished, and presented in a way that removes most of its feral character.
What rescues this from complete anonymity is the interplay between orris and patchouli in the heart—there's a dusty, almost lipstick-like quality where the iris meets the earth, creating something genuinely interesting for about ninety minutes. The rose and violet add a soapy floral haze that feels quintessentially French-perfumery-does-Middle-Eastern, whilst ylang ylang contributes an overripe banana skin sweetness that either charms or irritates depending on your tolerance for lactonic notes.
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3.5/5 (77)