Marc Jacobs
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The plum hits with an almost fermented intensity, borderline overripe, whilst saffron adds its distinctive metallic-leather sharpness and iris contributes a cool, root-like earthiness. These three create an immediate tension—sweet versus austere, juicy versus powdery—that defines the fragrance's character from the first spray.
As the opening settles, Bulgarian rose and jasmine sambac emerge with their full-bodied, slightly animalic floralcy, whilst orris root amplifies that signature powdery quality into something almost cosmetic. The fruit recedes but never disappears, lurking beneath the flowers like a purple velvet cushion supporting precious stones.
The base reveals itself as surprisingly dry and woody, with papyrus and vetiver creating an almost dusty, library-like atmosphere whilst liquidambar provides just enough resinous sweetness to echo the plum's memory. What remains is powdery, woody, and quietly tenacious—less a shout than a whispered reminder of the drama that came before.
Decadence announces itself as a study in opulent contrasts—where the jammy sweetness of Italian plum meets the leathery, medicinal bite of saffron, creating an opening that's simultaneously luscious and unsettling. This isn't the clean fruitiness of department store crowd-pleasers; Annie Buzantian has crafted something darker, more ambiguous. The iris and orris root form a powdery, almost chalky backbone that runs through the entire composition, tempering what could have been cloying sweetness into something more austere and architectural. Jasmine sambac brings its indolic edge to the Bulgarian rose, preventing the floral heart from sliding into conventional prettiness—there's a slight funk here, a human warmth that makes the composition feel alive rather than static.
The woody base surprises with its dryness: papyrus lends a dusty, papery quality whilst liquidambar (a tree resin with a balsamic character) adds just enough warmth to keep things from becoming too ascetic. Vetiver provides an earthy, slightly smoky counterpoint to all that plush fruit and powder above. This is a fragrance for someone who wants to smell expensive and deliberately complicated—worn by those who appreciate that true decadence isn't about obvious luxury, but rather the confidence to wear something challenging. It suits dimly lit bars, gallery openings, late suppers where the conversation runs as dark and rich as the wine. Not for the faint-hearted, but magnetic on those who can carry its particular brand of ornate restraint.
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3.9/5 (207)