Memo Paris
Memo Paris
207 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The bergamot and mint cut through with almost aggressive freshness, a bright bergapten-forward blast tempered by cool menthol. Within minutes, the mugwort adds an herbal, slightly dusty quality—like brushing past dried botanicals in a bohemian shop. The freshness feels deliberately fleeting, as though the fragrance is already preparing to shed this top-note costume.
By the second hour, the jasmine and osmanthus bloom with considerable richness, the absolutes creating a honeyed, almost intoxicating floral bed. The Mat Absolute reveals itself more fully now—that tobacco-like, slightly resinous undertone that gives the florals an unexpected shadowy intimacy. The mint fades almost entirely, replaced by the warm, skin-like quality of these absolutes working in concert.
What remains is predominantly the Sweet Vernal Grass with musk, a pale golden whisper rather than a presence. The florals fade to barely detectable traces, leaving instead a clean, slightly hay-like dryness with creamy musk undertones. By the fourth hour, it's essentially a skin-scent—beautiful in its subtlety, but one must lean in to appreciate it fully.
Fleurs Bohèmes is a fragrance caught between whispered intention and gossamer restraint. Aliénor Massenet has crafted something deliberately evanescent—a scent that refuses to announce itself, instead demanding proximity and attention from those who encounter it. The bergamot-mint opening feels almost medicinal in its clarity, a bracing prelude that quickly yields to the fragrance's true purpose: a hedonistic jamboree of absolutes in the heart.
What makes this composition genuinely compelling is the interplay between Jasmine Sambac Absolute and Mat Absolute—that smoky, slightly animalic note that adds an illicit depth to what could otherwise be mere floral sweetness. The osmanthus absolute weaves through like apricot-scented silk, its subtle fruitiness preventing the jasmine from becoming cloying. This isn't the polite florality of a conventional white floral; there's something slightly bohemian about the way these absolutes jostle together, creating an almost skin-scent intensity despite the fragrance's negligible projection.
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3.1/5 (89)