Molton Brown
Molton Brown
97 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The elemi resin strikes first with a slightly sharp, almost medicinal brightness, immediately complicated by purple basil's herbal snap and black tea's tannic dryness. Within moments, the composition smells like someone has cracked open a leather-bound journal in a botanical apothecary, all competing voices vying for attention.
The birch and Siberian stone pine settle in like a cool fog rolling across northern terrain, their clean resinousness tempering the tobacco's earthy emergence. The leather begins its slow, deliberate unfurling, still sharp but now layered with the woody framework that gives it genuine architecture and complexity.
What remains is predominantly leather and cade juniper wood—a smoky, slightly austere embrace that loses definition and presence with each passing hour. By the fourth hour, the scent has retreated considerably, becoming a quiet whisper of wood smoke and leather rather than the assertive composition it opened with, eventually fading to skin warmth and the faintest tobacco echo.
Russian Leather Molton Brown arrives as a fragrance caught between two impulses: the aromatic restraint of a gentleman's grooming ritual and the raw, almost confrontational edge of a leather workshop. Loïc Bisceglie has constructed something genuinely unusual here—a leather scent that refuses to whisper.
The opening act belongs to elemi resin and purple basil, which create an almost medicinal brightness that sits uneasily atop black tea's dry, slightly bitter embrace. This isn't the soft leather of a well-worn glove; this is freshly treated hide, still aggressive, still retaining the chemical memory of its transformation. The purple basil—a note rarely seen in contemporary fragrances—lends an herbaceous sharpness that prevents the composition from settling into comfortable masculinity.
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3.9/5 (94)