Naomi Goodsir
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and tangerine articulate themselves with crisp clarity, lending an almost citrus-forward quality that feels refreshingly unsweetened. Within minutes, however, the iris begins its subtle emergence, arriving not as the creamy, soft focal point of traditional iris fragrances but as something distinctly powdery and grey—faintly ashy, faintly mineral, like inhaling dust from an old iris root.
The violet materialises as a sophisticated moderator, its green, leafy character preventing the iris from tipping into overwhelming powderiness. Here, the woody accords assert themselves with increasing confidence—a dry, almost architectural quality that suggests cedar and vetiver working beneath the surface. The composition achieves a striking balance: floral yet structural, soft yet austere, feminine-leaning notes gentled by an undercurrent of earthy restraint.
Tobacco and cistus emerge as the fragrance settles into its final act, bringing an almost leathery dryness that transforms the iris into something aged and contemplative. The amber provides warmth without sweetness, whilst the tobacco lends an indefinable lived-in quality—as though the scent has absorbed itself into fabric and skin rather than hovering above it. By the final hours, Iris Cendré becomes an olfactory rumination: subdued, introspective, and precisely where it intends to be.
Iris Cendré is a study in sophisticated restraint—a fragrance that whispers rather than declares. Julien Rasquinet has crafted something decidedly cerebral here, where the iris takes centre stage not as a creamy, powdery indulgence but as something altogether more austere and mineral-edged. The bergamot and tangerine opening provides a measured brightness, almost professional in its restraint, before the fragrance pivots toward its true obsession: that grey, slightly ashy interpretation of iris that dominates the composition's character.
What makes this scent compelling is the tension between its floral structure and its woody, tobacco-inflected underbelly. The violet emerges as a bridge rather than a sweetener, lending a delicate greenness that prevents the composition from becoming too powdery despite its 76% powdery accord rating. This isn't the violet of grandmother's sachets—it's crisp, almost stem-forward, harmonising with the earthy quality that bleeds through from the tobacco and cistus base.
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3.7/5 (79)