Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
76 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The bergamot strikes first with zesty brightness, immediately joined by galbanum's distinctive green snap—sharp, slightly soapy, intensely alive. Mandarin orange adds a softer citric sweetness beneath, but you're predominantly in green, clean territory, almost vibrant enough to seem edible.
By the twenty-minute mark, lily of the valley blooms with an almost translucent quality, its delicate floral texture floating atop the jasmine absolute's warmer, honeyed presence. The orris butter emerges as a subtle binding agent, creating a soft, slightly powdered effect that allows the florals to settle into genuine complexity rather than obvious beauty. The spice accord becomes apparent here—a warm, almost peppery undertone that prevents the heart from ever feeling too soft or feminine.
The final hours belong to the base notes; musk and patchouli create an earthy, slightly animalic embrace, whilst oakmoss develops that characteristic leather-tobacco dryness. The florals fade to a memory, leaving behind a subtly spiced, earthy-chypre structure that clings to the skin with quiet persistence rather than bombastic projection.
Odalisque arrives as a sophisticated study in restraint—a fragrance that refuses the hedonistic excess its name might suggest. Rather than drowning in opulence, this 1989 composition orchestrates a delicate tension between green brightness and creamy florality, with just enough spice threading through to prevent any cloying surrender.
The opening volley of bergamot and galbanum establishes immediate crispness, that characteristic green sharpness of galbanum cutting through the citrus with an almost herbaceous edge. But this is merely the prelude to what emerges: a luminous heart of lily of the valley and jasmine absolute, where the lily's faintly green, slightly metallic character plays counterpoint to jasmine's warm narcotic sweetness. The orris butter—that precious, iris-derived ingredient—acts as a cushioning agent, softening the florals into something almost powdery without becoming grandmotherly or dated.
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3.8/5 (147)