Olivier Durbano
Olivier Durbano
73 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Frankincense and pepper collide in a dry, peppery burst that's immediately grounding—no citrus softening, no fresh herbs diluting the impact. The cardamom and coriander arrive almost simultaneously, adding a slightly sweet, spiced warmth that prevents the opening from feeling austere to the point of hostility, though it remains decidedly unsugary and mineral-edged.
The smoked wood emerges with surprising body, whilst leather and oud create a quietly animalic undercurrent that feels ancient and knowing. The patchouli develops a slight woodiness that intertwines beautifully with the precious woods, creating an almost chalky, dry aesthetic that's more library-and-leather than garden-and-spice.
Moss, amber, and musk form a surprisingly soft base that contrasts with everything preceding it, though the patchouli's bitterness prevents any sentimentality. What remains is a ghostly, skin-scent projection of smoked woods and soft leather—intimate and nearly ephemeral, vanishing within close proximity but lingering faintly on clothing.
Black Tourmaline is a fragrance that smells like the interior of an ancient apothecary that's been sealed for centuries. Olivier Durbano has constructed something genuinely austere here—a composition that refuses to court easy affection. The opening bristles with frankincense and black pepper, immediately establishing an almost medicinal severity, whilst cardamom and cumin add a subtle warmth that prevents the scent from becoming purely clinical. What's remarkable is how the spice accord (clocking 88% of the fragrance's DNA) never veers into foodiness; instead, the cumin's earthiness anchors everything in mineral, almost geological territory.
As the composition settles, smoked wood and leather emerge with considerable presence, and here's where the oud reveals itself not as a dominant force but as a supporting player—a whisper of animalic intensity rather than the loudmouthed projection some fragrances employ. The precious woods create a skeletal framework, and the patchouli adds a slight vegetal bitterness that keeps the amber from becoming honeyed. This is a fragrance for someone who gravitates towards leather-heavy fragrances but finds most too indulgent; for those who appreciate incense without wanting to smell like they've stepped out of a temple; for autumn evenings spent indoors, perhaps with a book and deliberately dim lighting.
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3.8/5 (121)