Ormonde Jayne
Ormonde Jayne
100 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Coriander and pink pepper assault immediately with spicy brightness, whilst davana contributes an almost savoury fruitiness—bergamot's citrus snap feels peripheral, almost apologetic against the spice-forward aggression. This is bracing, peppery, almost uncomfortable in its directness.
The iris emerges as the composition's true focus, settling into a fine, powdery texture that feels slightly chalky on skin. Jasmine sambac creeps in with creamy indolence, whilst pimento and laurel add herbal complexity that prevents any descent into conventional florality—it's curiously austere, even as florals supposedly dominate.
Frankincense and myrrh establish themselves as resinous anchors, their slightly smoky, almost incense-like quality deepening as cedarwood and gaiac wood provide phenolic support. Patchouli grounds everything into earth, leaving something contemplative and mineral—though longevity remains frustratingly modest for an eau de parfum.
Orris Noir is a fragrance that refuses to whisper. Geza Schön constructs something deliberately austere here—a composition that privileges the earthy, almost medicinal quality of iris root over the conventionally pretty florals one might expect. The opening is a sharp, almost aggressive interplay between coriander's warm spice and pink pepper's bite, with davana adding an apricot-like fruitiness that feels slightly fermented rather than sweet. This is not a fragrance that coddles.
What emerges is genuinely compelling: the iris settles into a grainy, slightly soapy powderiness—that distinctive orris character—whilst jasmine sambac offers counterpoint as a creamy, almost indolic presence. Laurel and pimento add herbal depth, preventing the floral heart from drifting into feminine conventionality. There's something almost pharmaceutical about this structure, like walking through an apothecary where someone's been crushing dried iris root and mixing it with spice jars.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.9/5 (90)