Parfums d'Elmar
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The opening strikes with pink pepper's aggressive bite against cool bergamot zest, whilst fig leaf provides an almost herbal, slightly green-vegetative quality that's unexpectedly savoury. Saffron's mineral warmth immediately complicates matters, creating a spiced, almost perfumed opening that feels more North African marketplace than typical fragrance launch.
As the opening fades, Bulgarian rose emerges with peppery nuance, harmonising with the fruity raspberry note into something simultaneously floral and jammy. Gaiac wood's warm smoke settles beneath, whilst water jasmine adds an aqueous, slightly bitter floral quality that prevents the composition from becoming conventionally pretty—this is where the fragrance's personality truly crystallises.
The base reveals itself gradually: caramel and vanilla become prominent without overwhelming, whilst oud and patchouli create a resinous, almost leather-tinged foundation. Cistus absolute adds a fascinating textile-like quality, and the musk threads everything together into a warm, skin-scent finish that feels intimate rather than projecting—entirely appropriate for a fragrance called Elixir d'Amour.
Elixir d'Amour announces itself as a fragrance caught between restraint and indulgence—a study in calculated sensuality that refuses easy categorisation. Mark Buxton has constructed something deliberately baroque: the pink pepper ignites with an almost peppery snap against fig leaf's green, slightly dusty whisper, whilst saffron threads through with mineral warmth. This isn't florals-first territory, despite the 100% floral accord; instead, the spice (88%) dominates the opening moments, creating an almost savoury prelude.
What emerges as the fragrance settles is where its true character reveals itself. The Bulgarian rose doesn't arrive as romantic sweetness but as something more complex—a slightly peppery, almost spicy rose that plays beautifully against the fruity raspberry note. Gaiac wood provides a subtle smoky backbone, preventing the composition from tipping into feminine territory, whilst water jasmine adds an aqueous, slightly bitter-green dimension that keeps everything feeling fresh despite the gathering sweetness. This is a fragrance for those who appreciate florals that challenge rather than coddle.
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4.0/5 (186)