Penhaligon's
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A bright, almost medicinal burst of eucalyptus and cardamom hits first, sharp and clarifying, like inhaling steam infused with spices. The white cedar arrives immediately alongside, establishing a clean, slightly resinous woodiness that prevents any herbaceous note from becoming too astringent. Orange blossom absolute peeks through the brightness, offering a barely-there warmth that softens the composition's initial severity.
The spiced heart emerges with surprising complexity as the initial sharpness recedes. Turkish rose absolute and cinnamon leaf develop a dry, leathery character—this is no conventional floral moment, but rather something peppery and slightly green. Rosewood and mace layer additional aromatic complexity, whilst Egyptian jasmine contributes a faint animalic warmth that keeps the heart from ever becoming sweetly innocent. The woody framework becomes more pronounced as the fragrance settles into skin.
Frankincense and gaiac wood advance decisively, creating a pronounced smoky, almost resinous veil over everything. Benzoin softens this austerity with creamy amber undertones, whilst red sandalwood weaves through with its characteristic cool, slightly astringent woodiness. Vanilla and tonka bean provide the faintest suggestion of gourmand sweetness, but the composition remains fundamentally austere—smoke, wood, and incense dominating until the eventual fade into skin warmth alone.
Penhaligon's Elixir is a fragranced paradox: a perfume that announces itself with bright, almost medicinal clarity before revealing something far more complex beneath. Olivia Giacobetti constructs a composition where eucalyptus and cardamom create an initial sharpness—the scent of a Victorian apothecary rather than a perfume counter—yet this austere opening dissolves into something altogether more sensual. The orange blossom absolute arrives as a subtle counterpoint, providing warmth without sweetness, whilst white cedar establishes the woody skeleton that will define the entire wearing experience.
What makes Elixir fascinating is the interplay between its spiced heart and smoky foundation. Turkish rose absolute and cinnamon leaf don't perform as expected; instead of evoking a conventional rose-based fragrance, they contribute a dry, almost leathery quality. The mace adds a subtle peppery edge that keeps the composition from becoming too rounded, whilst rosewood and Egyptian jasmine provide floral restraint. This is where Elixir reveals its true personality—not as a romantic scent, but as something intellectual and slightly austere.
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4.2/5 (225)