Philipp Plein
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The aquatic bergamot fizzes against ginger's sharp crystalline heat, creating an almost mentholated freshness that feels unexpectedly clean given what's lurking beneath. Within seconds, the spices start their assault—black pepper leading the charge with cardamom's green sweetness and star anise's liquorice bite snapping at its heels.
The leather accord fully emerges, dark and slightly acrid, whilst cinnamon and clove create a mulled wine warmth that the dark chocolate renders into something between a mole sauce and burnt caramel. The spices remain prominent but now they're embedded in this smoky, resinous base where frankincense adds its churchy solemnity and patchouli contributes earthy shadows.
What remains is primarily leather and woods—cedarwood's dry pencil shavings meeting patchouli's damp earth—with bourbon vanilla and black amber creating a sweet, almost cola-like syrupiness that clings to skin. The spices have faded to a gentle warmth, whilst the oud adds occasional wafts of medicinal funk that keep the composition from becoming too comfortable.
No Limit$ announces itself with a flash of wet stones and citrus—bergamot cutting through aquatic mineral notes like rain on hot leather—before the ginger adds a crystalline bite that feels almost electric. Within minutes, that bright opening collapses into a spice market rendered in chiaroscuro: black pepper crackles against cinnamon's sweet heat, whilst cardamom and star anise weave liquorice-tinged shadows between the clove's metallic sharpness. This is spice as architecture rather than ornament, each element building upon the last until the structure feels almost aggressive in its intensity.
Then Morillas does something unexpected—he drops dark chocolate into the fray, its bitter cacao grounding the spices whilst the leather accord surges forward, all smoke and tannins. The sweetness here isn't apologetic; bourbon vanilla and black amber create a treacly richness that somehow doesn't soften the composition so much as make it more dangerously wearable. Patchouli adds its earthy funk beneath cedarwood's pencil-shaving dryness, whilst frankincense trails incense smoke through the base like a censer swinging in a nightclub. The oud feels more suggested than stated, adding a medicinal edge rather than dominating proceedings.
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3.8/5 (255)