Rosendo Mateu - Olfactive Expressions
Rosendo Mateu - Olfactive Expressions
144 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Jasmine Sambac arrives with unexpected creaminess, immediately sweetened and softened by the sandalwood's woody embrace. There's a fruity shimmer beneath—stone fruit notes emerging from the jasmine's naturally peachy undertones—before the composition settles into its primary axis.
The sandalwood assumes greater prominence, its milky, almost coconut-like character merging seamlessly with the now-docile jasmine. Vanilla and amber accumulate gently, building a creamy sweetness that evokes skin-warmed musk rather than conventional gourmand notes. The spicy accords (76% in the blend) manifest as subtle pepper-like warmth rather than overt spice.
What remains is essence of skin itself—amber and vanilla reduced to a barely-there second skin with persistent sandalwood. The composition becomes increasingly intimate and olfactory quietude itself, fading to soft talc and warm wood, more remembered than smelled.
Rosendo Mateu's Olfactive Expressions presents a study in restraint—a fragrance that whispers rather than announces. The Jasmine Sambac establishes itself as the dominant voice, lending a creamy, almost buttery quality that immediately distances this from conventional white florals. Rather than the heady indolic rawness typical of Sambac, here it arrives softened, already embraced by the underlying sandalwood's woody warmth. This is jasmine filtered through silk rather than worn boldly on skin.
The Indian sandalwood forms the true backbone of the composition. It doesn't play support; instead, it enters into a measured dialogue with the jasmine, creating a creamy floral-woody axis that feels simultaneously sensual and cerebral. The amber and vanilla base notes add density without excess, building a soft sweetness that registers as almost intimate—closer to gourmand suggestion than confectionery statement. At 52% creaminess in the accord breakdown, the composition reads as a skin scent with cosmetic undertones: powdery, soft-edged, subtly sweet.
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3.6/5 (160)