Santa Maria Novella
Santa Maria Novella
130 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot crackles across your skin with immediate brightness, cutting through a voluminous cloud of sweet tobacco leaf that smells almost confectionery—think dried fig and caramel wrapped in smoke. The tobacco dominates completely, rich and slightly resinous, establishing the fragrance's entire personality within moments.
As the bergamot recedes, the composition deepens considerably. Leather and birch emerge with a papery, slightly woody character, whilst amber weaves through like honey-coloured light, creating a creamy sweetness that prevents the leather from becoming harsh. The tobacco softens but remains present, now intertwined with sandalwood's buttery whisper.
What remains is a soft, sweetened woody base—vanilla and cedarwood form a warm vanilla-inflected cocoon, with gaiac wood adding a subtle spiced-wood character and musk providing a barely-there skin scent quality. The fragrance becomes intimate and second-skin, less tobacco-forward and more a sophisticated woody-amber, as though the composition has aged into something gentler and more contemplative.
Tabacco Toscano arrives not as a gentle suggestion but as an immediate declaration—a fragrance that smells like stepping into a Renaissance apothecary where tobacco leaf hangs alongside amber resin and old leather-bound manuscripts. The Tuscan tobacco note dominates with a slightly sweet, almost caramelised quality, never acrid or medicinal, tempered immediately by bergamot's citrine brightness so that you're not drowning in smoke but rather standing in a sunlit room where smoke curls through shafts of golden light.
What makes this composition genuinely compelling is the restraint of the heart notes. Rather than overwhelming you with leather brutalism, the birch and leather sit quietly beneath the tobacco, adding an almost papery, slightly astringent quality—like aged suede that's been stored with dried herbs. The amber acts as a sweetening agent, preventing the whole thing from becoming austere or purely masculine in a dated sense. There's a creamy undertone here, something almost resinous and comforting.
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3.6/5 (118)