Serge Lutens
Serge Lutens
11.8k votes
Best for
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Honey and tobacco leaf arrive as thick and immediate as walking into a patisserie beside a tobacconist's, all crystallised sweetness cut with dry, slightly bitter papery leaf. Iris powder emerges almost instantly, lending a cool, cosmetic quality that keeps the opening from turning sticky, creating an intriguing tension between warm and austere.
Rose and incense begin their slow burn, their resinous smoke weaving through hay's grassy-dry warmth whilst amber swells underneath like heated skin. The tobacco deepens, becoming more leathery and aromatic, whilst tonka bean's almond-like sweetness starts to bridge the composition's disparate elements into a cohesive, spiced whole.
Benzoin and sandalwood create a soft, vanillic base that's somehow both powdery and creamy, with musk adding a skin-like intimacy. The tobacco persists as a ghostly presence, no longer dominating but threading through everything like smoke through fabric, whilst the sweetness mellows into something almost savoury, earthy, and entirely comforting.
Chergui is a powdered tobacco dream wrapped in warm amber resin, the scent of sun-bleached wooden shutters and honey-soaked pastries in a Moroccan salon. Christopher Sheldrake has orchestrated a masterful collision between tobacco leaf's dry, papery quality and iris's cool, lipstick-like powder, creating an almost chalky sweetness that feels both indulgent and restrained. The honey here isn't cloying—it's old, crystallised, dusty with age, threading through hay's grassy-dry warmth like golden syrup through dried stems. Rose and incense smoulder in the heart, their smoke curling upward through layers of tonka and benzoin that transform the composition into something between a spice souk and a gentleman's smoking jacket left too long in the sun.
This is a fragrance for those who find comfort in the worn and weathered rather than the pristine and polished. It suits contemplative evenings, dimly lit libraries, the slow burn of conversation over aged spirits. There's a lived-in quality here—tobacco that's been handled, iris powder that's settled into fabric creases, amber resin that's warmed against skin. The performance is formidable; Chergui clings and evolves, its sweet tobacco haze announcing your presence without shouting. This isn't for the faint-hearted or those seeking freshness—it's dense, enveloping, unapologetically opulent. The sort of scent that makes strangers lean closer and ask what you're wearing, then nod knowingly when you tell them it's Lutens.
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4.5/5 (8.5k)