Sol de Janeiro
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The first fifteen minutes deliver an immediate hit of salted caramel that borders on overwhelming—burnt sugar crystals dissolving on skin with just enough sea salt to keep it from feeling like you've dunked yourself in dessert topping. There's a bright, almost aggressive sweetness that announces itself without asking permission, synthetic aldehydes giving it that modern, polished sheen.
As it settles, the roasted macadamia emerges with its nutty, buttery warmth, whilst white chocolate adds a creamy, cocoa-butter richness that feels almost sunscreen-adjacent in the best possible way. The composition gains depth here, the interplay between toasted nuts and milky sweetness creating something more rounded, less shouty, though still decidedly sweet and enveloping.
What remains is soft tonka paired with coconut blossom's gentle lactonic haze—heliotrope-like, powdery-sweet, with that characteristic Sol de Janeiro warmth that clings close to skin. The salinity fades almost entirely, leaving behind a musky-sweet veil that's more suggestion than statement, like the ghost of sun cream on sheets the morning after a beach day.
Cheirosa '71 is an unabashed love letter to Brazilian beachside indulgence, where Jérôme Epinette has conjured something that hovers deliciously between edible fantasy and wearable gourmand. The opening is a shock of salted caramel—not the genteel kind found in Parisian chocolateries, but something bolder, where granules of sea salt cut through burnt sugar like a tongue pressed to sun-warmed skin. This isn't shy perfumery; it's brazen, synthetic in the way modern musks are synthetic, which only amplifies its golden, holiday-drunk character.
The roasted macadamia accord does genuine heavy lifting here, providing a buttery, toasted quality that prevents this from sliding into cloying territory. It's the savoury whisper that makes the sweetness bearable, almost addictive. White chocolate appears not as the milky, mass-market variety but as cocoa butter richness, creamy and ever-so-slightly waxy in that pleasing way expensive sun cream smells on heated skin. The tonka and coconut blossom base is where things settle into full tropical languor—heliotrope-like sweetness meets lactonic coconut, whilst tonka's coumarinic warmth adds depth without weight.
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3.8/5 (463)