Tauer Perfumes
Tauer Perfumes
452 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bitter almond and apricot kernel hit first, almost marzipan-like but saved from confectionery by the rasp of cinnamon bark and a bright squeeze of bergamot. The sweetness is immediate but complex, edged with spice that prickles at the nose. Within minutes, the rose begins its emergence—not fresh-cut, but concentrated and slightly jammy, as though petals have been macerated in apricot brandy.
The Afghan and Bulgarian roses take centre stage, their absolute richness creating an almost overwhelming floral density that the tobacco leaf tempers with its dried-fruit sweetness. Geranium adds a metallic, slightly soapy facet that prevents the composition from becoming too plush, whilst the spices recede into a warm haze. This phase is the most overtly feminine, yet the tobacco's earthiness and the faint leather undertones keep it firmly unisex territory.
What remains is surprisingly austere—the sweet elements have largely dissipated, leaving a skin-close veil of vetiver-tinged musk with whispers of patchouli and ambergris. The rose is now a memory, a powdery trace held together by tonka's hay-like vanilla and the faintest echo of cinnamon. It's warm but not heavy, intimate rather than projecting, like the scent of someone's neck after a long day.
Andy Tauer's Une Rose de Kandahar is a rose with the dust of the Silk Road still clinging to its petals. The opening bursts with bitter almond and apricot skin, a Persian miniature painted in edible pigments, before cinnamon bark adds a heat that's almost narcotic. This isn't a polite rose—the Afghan and Bulgarian absolutes create something dense and resinous, darkened by tobacco leaf that smells of dried fruit and molasses rather than smoke. The bourbon geranium sharpens the rose's metallic edges whilst the tobacco absolute brings an animalic sweetness, like rose petals pressed between the pages of a leather-bound book left in a spice merchant's storeroom.
What makes this compelling is how Tauer balances the powdery sweetness—tonka and vanilla that could turn cloying—against the earthiness of vetiver and patchouli. The ambergris (whether natural or Tauer's masterful recreation) adds a mineral quality that keeps the amber accord from veering into gourmand territory. This is a rose for those who find most florals insipid, who want their beauty served with complexity and a slight danger. It's intensely nostalgic without being dated, evoking the plush velvet seats of old opera houses and the particular warmth of skin against silk.
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